Sunday, June 2, 2013

To Kill Fast Fashion



The recent garment disaster in Bangladesh has brought to light the plight of garment workers in the way recent school shootings brought gun control to the forefront. Hundreds of people died in the collapse of a clothing factory that provided miserable wages and horrible conditions to workers producing cheap clothing for Walmart, Mango, Joe Fresh, and other major brands.

Something I was thinking about quite a bit before this disaster was the proliferation of "fast fashion" retailers. H&M, Zara, Uniqlo, Old Navy, Target and others design and sell low-cost clothing that is meant to be worn for a season and thrown away (or recycled) shortly thereafter (kind of like Ikea does for furniture). Vast amounts of clothing end up in landfills, having used huge amounts of water to produce. Styles change rapidly to respond to the latest runway trends and keep ahead of consumer tastes, so the quality doesn't really need to be high, since it will be out of fashion within a year. It seems ironic to me that a company like H&M which is devoted to high volume, low-cost fashion would claim to be sustainable.


I believe it is time for a return to high-quality, long-lasting clothing. Not to pat myself on the back too much, but right now I'm wearing a Banana Republic shirt I've owned for 6 years, a 3-year old pair of Sperry Topsiders, a ten year old leather jacket, and a pair of shrink-to-fit Levi's that I only need to wash every couple months, and I think I look pretty sharp! Admittedly, I'm not sure about the conditions in which these were produced, but at least I know I'm not contributing to poor working conditions and water-intensive production methods more often than I need to. I've certainly given into the temptation to binge at Zara, H&M and Target once or twice, only to be disappointed with the quality when the crotch blows out or my tie unravels, whereas when I've chosen to buy a high-end item or two it has generally lasted long enough to get a bit of money at a thrift store a few years later. What's somewhat ironic is that I probably end up spending less money in the long if I choose a few high-quality items that I really like.

Of course, I'm a dude, and I can get away with a small wardrobe (how many girls do you know who wear the same pair of jeans every day for months at a time?) But my point is that we need to apply the "reduce, reuse, recycle" ethos to our clothing, and that might mean paying a bit more for something that was ethically produced and of high quality, and wearing it for longer than a single season.

The big question is, what will it take to take this mainstream? Must we have international regulations on apparel production to kill the fast fashion lifestyle, or can it be consumer-led? I'm not sure, but I'm going to do my best to be conscious about my consumption habits, and the more of us doing this, the bigger impact we can make.

What you can do:
-Buy American when you can afford it (beware of Saipan-produced clothing though)
-Pay more for high quality, well made materials
-Wash clothes less often and hang dry when possible so they last longer
-Limit your purchases to items you'll actually wear, and that might stand a chance of staying in style for more than a month
-Get your clothes tailored or repaired before you give up on them
-Dress up quality staples with unique accessories from a thrift store
-Buy a pair of raw denim jeans and beat them to shit. This is the ultimate in slow fashion. They'll look better than anything off the shelf. Before and after pic of such a pair:


4 comments:

  1. Great informative post Chris! I totally buy-in to your thought process and appreciate the logical argument. And, I need to go find me a pair of 501s.

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  3. Dorothy said...
    Ha, I loved this post. I don't wear them every single day but I do really only have 1 pair of jeans that I actually wear (mostly because it's so demoralizing to go jean shopping...sigh. Jeans with Justice to the rescue?). I've had to stop riding my bike in them; it was not doing them any favors. Saving up for a pair of these to solve that problem. http://shop.outlier.cc/shop/retail/lsd.html

    I agree that it's a little hard to reconcile H&M's supposed commitment to sustainability with the impression I'm confronted with when I go into the store. Most of the clothes seem of middling quality, the layout is impossible to understand, and I'm just left with the sensation of "too much." It's overwhelming.

    I have this kind of crazy goal of getting my wardrobe down to 7 or 8 outfits. I think if I can find some dresses or tops or whatever that are a fairly classic style, and can be mixed and matched with different sweaters and shoes, I will not mind wearing the same outfits to work every week. Frankly, it would make my routine that much easier. Maybe update some of the stuff every year if it gets worn out, but hopefully I can make the investment in some high quality materials. That can be machine washed and don't require ironing. Because I'm that lazy.

    There was a woman artist who did this experiment where she wore the same handmade outfit every day for a year (I think she might have made a new outfit for each season). I'm kind of inspired by that. Mostly I think I'll just be happier if I have an uncluttered closet. It stresses me out to have too much stuff.
    DM

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  4. Chris, I enjoyed your post and particularly liked the photos. Dorothy, I'm totally with you: my closet stresses me out. I'm thinking about taking a bunch of the clothes that I wear less frequently, still like and am not ready to give away, and putting them in a box in storage for a few years. When my current clothes wear out, I can open the box and voila! instant new wardrobe.

    I agree on the merits of buying clothing of high quality (although I'm a bit of a tightwad, so I don't always do it), but I contribute to the cause by buying classic styling that never goes out of fashion (largely because it never came into fashion in the first place). My partner and daughter are embarrassed by my choices, but what the hell...

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